Behringer Vintage Phaser VP-1 is a surprisingly good Smallstone Clone. Added stereo out and a vibe mode! Great for string machines and Rhodes!

Got this baby in very bad non working condition. Had to replace the processor board (battery leakage) with a cloned version and to source 12 new SSM chips.

It got also MIDI now plus an input for using the internal chorus FX.
After cleaning its looking brand new.
A nice 5k pot replacing R116 near IC31 will increase the unison detune!
http://synthhacker.blogspot.de/2013/04/polysix-adding-detune.html

Thx so much to Curetronic.com and Malte Rogacki for helping with the reanimation:)

Modded this little Roland TR-909 together with Claudio of discrete-audio-solutions. All mods are switchable to „stock“ sound (except clap noise).

Mods:

-BD-Tune, BD-Overdrive, BD-Decay Range Extension Switch

-Clap Noise Volume

-Rimshot Pitch variations switch

-Hihat Tune

Also exchanged the eprom to the latest firmware (V4) with stable MIDI timing. Thanks to curetronic for the steady desoldering-hand:)

www.discrete-audio-solutions.com

www.curetronic.com

Ripped from an Top Sound DS organ. Super nice triple bucket brigade chorus…solina style strings!!! using just 1 Roland 100m saw oscillator.

Got this earlier version of the RE-201 in a very bad shape. After a lot of hours it´s alive again. Replaced all pots and connections, recapped the power supply and adjusted the tape transport that caused a lot of issues. thx to Jacob Stoy who borrowed his RE-200 for troubleshooting. check out the sound on sound mod! quite noisy but fun unit!!!

Stereoping pointed out some interesting mods for this VCR-looking analog drum beast. Since i like the idea of saving kits i focussed on parameters like tune and decay for realtime control. Triggering those 5 voices by my modded TR-606 with multiple outputs. Great fun! 

Duration: 6h.

Thx for the nice documentation!

http://www.stereoping.com/pearl-drx-1-drumsynth/?lang=en

The Pearl DRX-1 has 5 Instruments which can be triggered by drumpads. Of course you can also feed some trigger-signals into it. All intruments have the same parameters and are therefore sounding identical, although the pitchranges are a little different. Beside Bassdrum there is the Snare and 3 Toms. Each has its own trigger-in and an individual out jack, 6.3mm. If you do not use the individual jacks, all sounds are summed together to a stereo-out. Very solid, professional and expensive hardware.

Pearl DRX-1 – back view
Pearl DRX-1 – back view
You have 8 kits to save your parametersets. the kit-selectionbuttons recall the kits immediately, you can switch them live in the song to change the sounds. You can hear that in the soundclip at the pagebottom.

To edit the sounds you select a pad (=sound), with two buttons (+/-) you select the parameter and with two other buttons you can increase/decrease the value. The range is from 1-19 for all parameter.

The Parameters

1. Pitch = the basic tune of the sound

2. Bend = the amount of pitchmodulation, the pitch is also velocity-dependant. heavy hit=more bend. Only positive (piuuuu).

3. Mix OSC/Noise = here you can blend from OSC-only to Noise-Only

4. Overtone = WOW, i love this parameter! It adds some ringmodulation sound to simulate the second drumhead of a tom.

5. Attack = Volume of Attack-Sound, a short enveloped Noise, not a Click. Makes the drumsound more defined and aggressive.

6. Filter = Lowpass for the Noise, also dampens the Attack-sound and even the Oscillator.

7. Decay = with high settings, the sound is very long, 808-like. With the shortest value, the decay is still quite long. It’s because this unit doesnt work with t-briges like the 808/cr78/er-0/dr55 a.s.o. machines but with oscillators that get modulated by enveloped VCAs like on the 909. It has 2×13900 (dual channel-OTAs) per channel.

8. Level = well ..

The Danelectro Spring King is a small spring reverb, but there’s also a slapback delay in it, using a PT2399S chip. Thanks to some documentation on the internet I could easily mod the reverb to control the delay. The idea is to be able to get only the reverb signal if we want, and in a general way to take advantage of the delay by changing the Time and Feedback as we feel.Control Delay Time:

Between PIN6 (VCO) and Ground there’s a CMS resistor „362“ (3,6k). Once it’s taken off you can put wires instead to a pot.
»It seems that a PT2399S can freeze if, when powered on, PIN6 is connected to the Ground. So either I will have to put a small resistor before the pot, or simply remember not to put the pot to „0“ before powering on. In any case you just to unplug and replug to get it back.
Control Feedback:
There’s a „153“ (15k) resistor just after PIN12 (OP2-OUT), replacing this one should work fine.

50k pot + 10k resistor in series for the FEEDBACK
50k pot + 3,3k in series for the DELAY TIME

Disclaimer: try at your own risk! This is tricky due to very small components, and you run the risk of ruining your pedal if you’re not careful!

Okay, here are instructions, all in one place:

The Danelectro Spring King is a hybrid delay and spring reverb.
It uses a pretty typical slap delay circuit, with a PT2399S delay
chip and a fixed delay time and feedback setting. It feeds the delay
signal through the springs and then out to a gain recovery stage.
Controls: The Reverb is wet/dry mix for reverb and delay. The
volume controls reverb (the strength of signal going through the
springs), but not delay. If it’s all the way down, you only get the
delay. All the way up and you still get the delay signal, but it’s
totally drowned out by the reverb, unless you kick the delay up to
a more obvious setting via the mod.

I have found that a slightly shorter delay time than stock, with
perhaps a slightly lower feedback level sounds just great. It sounds
tighter and more “real.” It’s easy to make the Spring King sound
trashy, but it can also sound surprisingly good. With the feedback
and delay time at minimum (essentially no delay sound at all), the
springs still sound good, and give off that dripping faucet sound.
Feedback controls how many repeats the delay gives you. If you
turn it up it will start to self-oscillate.

The 3.6k resistor (marked “362”) at pin six determines the delay
time. Replacing that resistor with an external potentiometer allow
you to you control delay time. Shorter delay time “tightens up”
the overall reverb sound, while a longer delay time makes it sound
“looser.” I’m think this is intended to simulate shorter and longer
springs.

I use a 10k pot for delay time (which stays within the realm of slap
back at all positions) and a 50k pot and a 15k resistor in series for
feedback so that at max feedback, it’s still getting the original 15k
resistance.

Note that by “wire to pot,” I mean first remove the resistor, and
then solder two wires onto the two solder pads left in its place,
and run those wires to the potentiometer. It’s a little tricky because
they’re surface mount, but totally doable if you’re careful. I use
double-sided tape to secure the wires to the inside of the enclosure
so they don’t droop down and mute the springs.

image
The delay resistor

image
The feedback resistor

image
Wide view

image
Unmodified springs & wiring

The Spring King is compatible with any spring reverb tank with
an input impedance of 8 to 10 ohms. You may want to upgrade the
spring tank to the larger unit like the Accutronics 4AB3C1B, the
same type used in the Fender 63 outboard reverb. Compared to the
Spring King’s original springs, the 4AB3C1B has longer springs
and a longer reverb time, and a nicer drip. I think upgrading the
reverb pan is a very worthwhile improvement. Accutronics has
many different units to choose from. Visit their website and learn
how to read the codes on the tanks. The codes tell you how many
springs there are, reverberation time, input and output impedance,
etc.

Of course, a larger reverb will require a new housing. You could
house it in a bread box (a tool box or something similar might
also work), or if you have fabrication abilities, build a custom
enclosure for it or rehouse the entire Spring King and new reverb
pan. You’ll want to use some type of shock absorbers at mounting
points to insulate it from external vibrations.

To connect to an external reverb pan, you need to drill a couple of
holes in the case, and install two RCA (phono) jacks (available at
Radio Shack.) Locate the two pairs of green and black wires, that
go from the PCB to each end of the springs. Cut those wires, strip
the ends, and solder them to the RCA jacks, going from the PCB
to the jacks. The green end is the signal, the black end is ground.
If you want to still be able to use the internal springs, you can
send those wires to a 4PDT toggle switch (available at Small Bear
electronics.) Again, be sure to prevent the wires from drooping
down over the springs and muting them.

image
Switch diagram

Once your RCA jacks are installed, you can run RCA cables
from the Spring King to the Accutronics reverb pan (they come
with RCA jacks already in place.) If you plug them in and get
no reverb, try reversing them – if they’re backwards you’ll get no
reverb.

Then plug in and enjoy your new improved Spring King!

Drip mod:

Increasing the low end going to the springs will result in a more prominent drip. A cap and a resistor set the lower end of the filter – larger values = more bass. Be careful though, as too much bass may cause your spring to feed back.

image

Stock is a 51k resistor with an unmarked capacitor. Here are some notes I made of different combinations I tried.

48k + 560pF = moderate drip
48k + 680pF = More drip
47k + 1120pF = Heavier drip
48k + 1220pF = Heaviest drip
48k + 440pF = airy sound, less drip

Some of the heavy drip combos will force you to back off the volume control to avoid feedback. You still can’t get as wet as a tank here (I think due to weaker recovery circuit, not 100% mix option, and not enough treble response in tone control), but you can get quite a respectable drip.

https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/5579/?page=7#p221450

Jacob Korn takes Telekom Electronic Beats TV into his studio for a Tech Talk with a difference. Watch as Jacob demystifies the seemingly complex world of modifying synthesisers and drum machines. In addition, to Korn’s wisdom, you will also hear 2 demos of what a few modifications can do to your gear, be it Roland, Yamaha or any other brand.

Check out www.jacobkorn.de/studio for more infos on mentioned projects!

This lovely linn drum sounding drum machine with 24 sounds and a lot of interesting preset rhythms and fill/break variations. the programming is fantastic and uses a very lively feel (they call it a built in humanizer function). I added an 8ch output multicore cable for arranging and mixing down those instrument groups in a more flexible way.

Power supply replacement so we got rid of the hum :
http://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/newsarchive/TR77power.html

Trigger inputs:
http://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/newsarchive/BRA.html

Sync input:
http://www.adambaby.com/studiotech_TR-77.html
http://www.burnkit2600.com/tr-77/

My first ever synth and also the first to be touched with the soldering iron:)
Used the Moog slayer mod with filter FM and also came up with an input to the juicy chorus effect.
Legowelt himself described a modification to the joystick where you remove a spring and use the vibrato/filter LFO without holding it all the time…its a nice one too!!

http://synthmod.net/korg/moog_slayer/
http://www.strellis.com/poly800.shtml

Ripped from an Top Sound DS organ. Super nice triple bucket brigade chorus…solina style strings!!! using just 1 Roland 100m saw oscillator.

Studer A820 controlled by serial remote controller, resoldered 9pin cable (different studer pinout) to a usb-serial converter directly to Max/MSP (M4L) in Ableton Live. Now it reads the timer, but i will add some more functionality like biasing other audio parameters  as well:) its unbelievable how future proof the whole design in the mid 80´s already was!!!

What drove me crazy (together with Deborah and Daniel as well, thx for your help my friends!) was that Studer did not really document their special pinout for the serial connector.

more info on the cable here (bedankt Jan!!): http://www.tieks.nl/revox/SR-rs232-need_en.html

please get in contact with me if you need the m4l patch.

this big thing is used for mastering over here btw. www.tailout.de

After decades i was able to aquire this gem in my hometown.

Switchboard and transistors on the mainboard for driving LEDs were faulty and some switches needed a replacement.

I decided to modify it non destructive as possible with the following mods i did to the RC-808 and the yocto clone alteady.

BD tune

SD tune, snappy decay

CL/Rim tune

CP reverb

Noise level

Metal noise overdrive

Metal tune

Noise/Metal Hat switch

OH CH choke off switch

CYM short decay switch

I made the same Mod for my friend Break SL and some Mods+Midi (CHD) for Mr. Incognito.

Got this iconic beat machine in town fora fair price. Battery needed a replacement and all of the 30 push buttons were cleaned with isopropanol. Fader 8 is still flakey.

After that i experimented with the ssm2044 chip and came up with an external control box for both of thi filters.

Cutoff 1,2

Reso 1,2

Env. Depth 1,2

THIS WILL TAKE A WHILE…

I had the chance to grab an all-time fav from an Emu collector 30 minutes away from home. The EMU EMULATOR TWO with an PLUS expansion (double tap 0 and ascess second bank).
Beside the fact, that he got rid of one of his EII´s i was able to check out the sound of ALL of the EMULATORS (incl. Filters) at his home studio. I was very impressed by the sound of the Emulator I but i liked the versatility of the EII better. The same goes for the EIII and the EMAX 1 and 2. He had them all (some of them twice).

I have to admit that the filter (2044) of my modified SP12 is still the sweetest i heard together with the dirty aliased resampling, but the EII is still one of a kind in terms of sound. Especially if you are able to dive into thousands of converted floppy files on the HXC.

So here is what i did. Removed both sticky front panel stickers and replaced by new manufactured ones that came with the instrument. Nice. Changed the Lotharek to a modified Gotek HXC with Oled and rotary. Main benefits: it saves the last recalled preset and the visibility is a lot better then the green display. Backlight foil was changed as well as the power inverter. That one still beeeeeps a lot so iam thinking of getting an external power supply for that instead of changing the whole PSU.

If there is somebody who has worked with that very machine or got more information, please get in touch with me!!! The seller mentioned he got the EII from somebody who got it from Berlins Hansa Studios. The bottom of the sampler shows different signatures (maybe Alan Wilder and some other studio musicians) and other fun stuff…

SAMPLE IS GOOD…

Looking for a real 808 since ever and finally got it (and modified it as well:))

Yocto Mods from the Forum:
BD tune, SD OSC1 Tune, Clave/Rim1 Tune, CP Reverb, incl. On/Off switches for most of the mods (for original values).
I built another clone using the XXLarge schematics back in the days. 50 mods. believe me…that´s the essentials that i build in my 808 as well.

After growing up with the sound of Trax, Djax-Up and German Acid+Rave (Harthouse, Junkfood etc) i owned a RE-303 25 years later that I sold since I thought something is missing after working with a couple of TB-303. But now Iam pretty satisfied with the sound of this little beast after a fistful essential modifications outlined in this gearslutz thread.
Those were done first and after that I needed some more (as usual) and after some debugging (thanks again to maffez and nordcore!) the „stachelfish“ was born.

Here is the complete list:

essentials to get the 303 sound right:
-lower Cutoff R44 (4k7)
-PW adjust trimmer R189
-declick mod C51 (200nF)
-d22 rubber mod (1uF)
-C52 100nF parallel
-PSU starve mod Reso R92 (100Ohm)

performance mods/devilfish stuff at the front:
-PW pot + 50kPot/switch
-Accent decay mod D15, 500k+1Mlog
-Env times switch (0,47 or 1uF parallel)
-VCA Decay R52 1M+1M Pot
-Lowest Decay aka var. Accent Decay R68 (100k Pot)
-Accent Reso Sweep R39 (1uF)
-Filter FM via VCA vs VCO switch plus Pot (100nF, 100k log)
-portamento switch (220nF) IC10Pin 5
-rubberduck attack mod switch R45 (1uF, 2uF)
-pre filter overdrive R24 parallel (200k lin)
-R123 BP Filter reverted=>sweet but too noisy

others:
-CV Output for Envelope
-Distortion smoother mod (D20 and D28 removed)
-more Resonance R160 (4k7 parallel)

TODO:
-Accent to Pitch
-VCO offset correct

resources:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/modular-mania-all-things-eurorack-and-modular-synths-effects/1289500-behringer-td3-diy-mods.html

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/atta…2&d=1579634540

https://youtu.be/3n-EN6GvkBI

After growing up with the sound of Trax, Djax-Up and German Acid+Rave (Harthouse, Junkfood etc) i owned a RE-303 25 years later that I sold since I thought something is missing after working with a couple of TB-303. But now Iam pretty satisfied with the sound of this little beast after a fistful essential modifications outlined in this gearslutz thread.

Those were done first and after that I needed some more (as usual) and after some debugging (thanks again to maffez and nordcore!) the „stachelfish“ was born.

Here is the complete list:

essentials to get the 303 sound right:
-lower Cutoff R44 (4k7)
-PW adjust trimmer R189
-declick mod C51 (200nF)
-d22 rubber mod (1uF)
-C52 100nF parallel
-PSU starve mod Reso R92 (100Ohm)

performance mods/devilfish stuff at the front:
-PW pot + 50kPot/switch
-Accent decay mod D15, 500k+1Mlog
-Env times switch (0,47 or 1uF parallel)
-VCA Decay R52 1M+1M Pot
-Lowest Decay aka var. Accent Decay R68 (100k Pot)
-Accent Reso Sweep R39 (1uF)
-Filter FM via VCA vs VCO switch plus Pot (100nF, 100k log)
-portamento switch (220nF) IC10Pin 5
-rubberduck attack mod switch R45 (1uF, 2uF)
-pre filter overdrive R24 parallel (200k lin)
-R123 BP Filter reverted=>sweet but too noisy

others:
-CV Output for Envelope
-Distortion smoother mod (D20 and D28 removed)
-more Resonance R160 (4k7 parallel)

TODO:
-Accent to Pitch
-VCO offset correct

resources:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/modular-mania-all-things-eurorack-and-modular-synths-effects/1289500-behringer-td3-diy-mods.html

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/atta…2&d=1579634540

After growing up with the sound of Trax, Djax-Up and German Acid+Rave (Harthouse, Junkfood etc) i owned a RE-303 25 years later that I sold since I thought something is missing after working with a couple of TB-303. But now Iam pretty satisfied with the sound of this little beast after a fistful essential modifications outlined in this gearslutz thread.

Those were done first (thx Carl) and after that I needed some more (as usual). After some debugging (thanks again to maffez and nordcore!) the „stachelfish“ was born.

Here is the 9 min complete walkthrough:

And here is the complete list:

essentials to get the 303 sound right:
-lower Cutoff R44 (4k7)
-PW adjust trimmer R189
-declick mod C51 (200nF)
-d22 rubber mod (1uF)
-C52 100nF parallel
-PSU starve mod Reso R92 (100Ohm)

performance mods/devilfish stuff at the front:
-PW pot + 50kPot/switch
-Accent decay mod D15, 500k+1Mlog
-Env times switch (0,47 or 1uF parallel)
-VCA Decay R52 1M+1M Pot
-Lowest Decay aka var. Accent Decay R68 (100k Pot)
-Accent Reso Sweep R39 (1uF)
-Filter FM via VCA vs VCO switch plus Pot (100nF, 100k log)
-portamento switch (220nF) IC10Pin 5
-rubberduck attack mod switch R45 (1uF, 2uF)
-pre filter overdrive R24 parallel (200k lin)
-R123 BP Filter reverted=>sweet but too noisy

others:
-CV Output for Envelope
-Distortion smoother mod (D20 and D28 removed)
-more Resonance R160 (4k7 parallel)

TODO:
-Accent to Pitch
-VCO offset correct

resources:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/modular-mania-all-things-eurorack-and-modular-synths-effects/1289500-behringer-td3-diy-mods.html

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/atta…2&d=1579634540